The mygola blog

They say Transylvania is the ultimate Halloween destination. While you cannot really compete with the recall value of Vlad the Dracula, there are other places which do not necessarily live with a horror-personality complex. Halloween’s around the corner, folks, and it’s that time of the year when poor ghosts and monsters enjoy that limited tourist season!

Halloween Roadside

The route from Toronto, Ontario to Oklahoma is by itself a breathtaking ride; but add to that a supernatural lift, and what we have is truly – and literally – a jaw dropping experience. Let me take you through some of the most haunted sites in America; all along the haunted highway!

THE HAUNTED ROAD (by Marcelo Braga)

THE ROUTE

Spanning over 2,400 kms (1,500 miles), the route takes us through the states of Michigan, Illinois, Missouri and finally Oklahoma and along this road, we’ll drive across cities and hamlets alike, all haunted and demented. For those of you really interested, I’ve done a map for the route.

Tunnel (by Miriam Poling)

THE HAUNTED SITES

The Lemp Mansion, St. Louis, Missouri

There are perhaps only a handful of other places in America that have as much a ghostly reputation as the Lemp Mansion. Since 1892, this place has been many things – a stately home to a boarding house to a  restaurant and bed and breakfast, but the legend is still very tangible and certainly is not just a lore.

The Lemp Mansion is alleged to be one of the America’s most haunted buildings. In the 1980s, it was ranked in the top nine haunted places by Life Magazine. Reputed paranormal incidents include “doors opening, shutting, locking, and unlocking on their own; candles lighting on their own; and a glass flying off a bar and crashing to the floor”. Visitors to the mansion have reported “feeling as if they are being watched, or sensing an atmosphere of sadness.”.

The Lemp Mansion by 4girlsandaghost

Do consider spending the night there and experience the spirits first hand. They also have paranormal tours on offer if you’d rather not venture out by yourself.

Bachelor’s Grove Cemetary

Near the southwest suburb of Midlothian is the Rubio Woods Forest Preserve; a haven of trees and shadows playing hide and seek. This Gothic refuge creates a world of its own, more than an illusion that it is in essence a far cry from the crowded city which lies just beyond its borders.

On the edge of the forest is a small graveyard that is considered to be one of the most haunted sites in the world. Called the Bachelor’s Grove, this ramshackle burial ground is believed to be infested with more ghosts than most of the other haunted sites in America put together. Over the years, there have been more than 100 documented reports of paranormal activities, from apparitions to glowing balls of light.

Bachelor’s Grove Cemetery GravE StonE by Antonio Bovino

Old Slave House, Hickory Hills, Equality

Although Illinois was by then a constitutionally free state, slaves still worked on John Crenshaw, his wife, Sinia Taylor and their five childrens’ 30,000 acres of land. Crenshaw leased slaves from Kentucky and in 1830, he leased 746 slaves. The mansion called the Hickory Hill, also dubbed as the Old Slave House, has as much history and apartheid attached to it as wandering spirits.

Illinois’ Haunted Slave House by J. Stephen Conn

Hickory Hill Mansion was not only designed to be the dream home of John Crenshaw, it was also built with an evil purpose in mind; to house an illegal slave trade and establish a breeding program. The outside of the mansion was designed in a “pseudo-Greek revival style”, having both upper and lower verandahs, all which was supported by massive columns, spreading the width of the mansion. The first two floors had six rooms each, where the Crenshaw family enjoyed a life of privilege, and were looked on as model citizens of their community. The attic, just above the family’s living quarters had thickened walls, and consisted of 12 tiny rooms, not much bigger than horse stalls, and a hallway with two whipping posts.

After Crenshaw’s death, the Old Slave House had been opened for tourist visits but soon people started claiming that many strange things happen in the house. Reports of strange noises, voices and whispers became strife. Following a deadly event in 1920, the house was closed down and researchers and scholars where no longer permitted inside. There are legends saying that the house has a tunnel that connected the basement to the Saline River.

The DeSoto Haunted sites

There are a number of haunted sites in Desoto, making the place one of the most visited regions in the States for paranormal buffs. Vineland Elementary

Vineland Elementary

(650 Vineland School Rd, Desoto, Mo): Ghosts roams the hallways at night and the staff has seen weird things. A grandmother will tell you the story from many years ago when, as a girl, she had sneaked out of her house to meet her boyfriend at midnight and, walking past the school, she saw a ghostly arm coming out of one of the windows.

Abandoned House On McKissock Street: A classic abandoned house and restless spirit tale:

The old two-story house on this street sat vacant for many years. Nobody remembers how many years it had been deserted for, but it was a long, long time ago. The windows had been broken by vandals and the house was crumbling with decay. No human being could possibly live in a house in that condition, and none did. However, people walking by swore that they witnessed the image of a woman carrying a coal lantern down the stairs. By local legends, “she would go into the former kitchen of the home and then walk back up the stairs and disappear”.

Arlington Bed and Breakfast (207 E Main St De Soto, MO 63020-2140, Tel.: (636) 337-0043): A long acclaimed haunted Inn, it was formerly known as The Desoto House when it was built in 1860. Orb photographs taken in the basement show ghostly shapes, apart from the usual antics of a poltergeist.

Apart from these, there is the Lady in Black; a cloaked figure, elegantly dressed in 19th century best who is said to roam the dark corners of the streets and lanes of Desoto at night. Quite a few have claimed sightings and encounters.

The haunted floor

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Food and travel go hand in hand. Yes there are those who travel to only ‘see’ and food is just about sustenance. They really need to get a life! For us foodies out there, we really do not need a reason to try out the local produce of a place we visit. However, it never hurts to have the backing of low carbon foot-prints, responsible tourism and a whole lot of goodwill to back our fascination with gastronomy.

Here’s an intriguing infographic from mother nature network. And in their words: “Are you torn between local lettuce and foreign fennel? Can’t decide on farm-to-table or plane-to-plate? Let MNN clear the air with this beginner’s guide to what being a ‘locavore’ or ‘globavore’ really means.”

Infographic: Locavorism vs. globavorism

Infographic: Locavorism vs. globavorism

God knows enough has been said about the Bangalore traffic. For those who are not from this part of the world, imagine 9 o’clock Harbor Freeway in LA, and then take away the lane discipline. Throw in some crazy bikers, women in fluttering bright candyfloss cloth weaving through every crack in the traffic, and you will begin to imagine the experience. What has backpacking to do with traffic? Let’s take a look at ‘causality’ – someone said, “you do not need a reason to travel. Just pick your bag and leave.” Well that is a lot of hogwash in my opinion! Everything has a cause. The need for a break, a pick-your-bag-and-go syndrome steps in quite strongly after a particularly harrowing experience in the traffic.

Traffic in MG Road Bangalore

Hence came the need to travel almost immediately. The fact that I deal with the said industry did not hurt either. Alternatively, the symphony through the headphones would have been enough to calm the nerves. Not for me. Travel has seeped into the blood stream. But casual travel needs green paper and too much planning. On a random day, you really just want to pick your bags and travel. Hence backpacking.

How is backpacking different

Usually, there is the entry and exit point fixed, there is a backpack (obviously), a guidebook or two in it, some amount of cash, probably a map, not a very set itinerary, and a lot of travel thirst. The question which one usually asks first is ‘why backpack?’ But I believe the more important question is ‘how backpack?’ Let me put it this way – apart from the fact of not having enough disposable cash, your choice to backpack might not be seen as normal thing to do with the family and friends. They usual responses are that it’s crazy, it’s not safe, and as Lorenzo Gonzalez puts it, “who goes backpacking other than ‘white people’?”

Whatever your reasons to go on such a trip, it is inconsequential and most likely made while you were couch surfing, watching a show on the television, reading a book, or recovering from a nervous breakdown. But the decision is anyhow made.

Internet access becomes quite important, tickets are usually bought by standing in the queue, exchanges happen more in cash than through cards, rooms are shared with other travelers, streetfood forms the staple diet, and in some cases, bus-rooftop and camel-back transport are found to be regular features.

all that I am By Robert Scales

How different is backpacking in India

Now that is a different case altogether. Like many other things, the rules are different here. And sometimes, that means no rules at all. There is the aspect of food, of safety, of basic connectivity, the culture of hostels (or the absence of it), even the ‘thing’ of race (I really did not want to use the term ‘issue’). And then I am sure, there are many more. That’s what this post is about.

About the food

Yes, Indian cuisine is doing the battles all over the world and from what I hear, see and smell, it is not doing too badly. But what about the picture outside of the avant-garde restaurants? Food is something which can be both the easy as well as the difficult part here. That depending where you are from. The cuisine can drastically change depending on the time of the day, even within the same street. So if you found something that suits your stomach in the morning, don’t expect to hear it again in the evening (in the quick incantation which often happen to replace the printed menus).

Delicious food at Juhu Beach, Mumbai By Tom Spender

You will find century old cafes, modern chain outlets, small hole-in-the-corner-wall eateries playing a riot of tastes on you. Carry digestives, do not overeat and drink lots of water.

The cuisine will also change drastically from one state to the other, and sometimes, within a span of just a hundred kilometers. One thing that’s given is that though we might have some problems fixing the mouth-to-food ratio in the country, you might not notice it upfront. It’s like you are walking into one large foodstreet. Once off the superhighways, you will not have any problem spotting eateries at hand. Hygiene is often questioned, and correctly so. However, if you cannot spot something outwardly ghoulish, they are more or less safe. Food usually sell out pretty fast in our country so they usually do not get to sell stale stuff. Careful about the water, though.

About the loo

This part will not go down too well. Public toilet systems are in complete apathy in India. Unless you are in an airport, a multiplex, a shopping mall or an upscale restaurant. And that too, from my experience, is not a uniform statement. You can see street walls painted with various religious symbols and idols along with warnings against relieving oneself there. The hope is that no one would want to do the deed with his maker looking right down upon him. The statement written on the walls are usually with various degrees of finesse in the English language and some can be pretty hilarious.

When it comes to economy hotels, chances will be that you might not find a spotless loo. Do not expect bright and fluffy towels (if you do get towels at all). To keep the rednecks happy, there are exceptions.

Gents' Relocated Toilets on the highway from Chandigarh to Kalka By Artiii

About the Hostel culture (or rather the lack of it)

Now the hostel culture is not too big in India yet. However, you will find numerous budget hotels. The cleanliness and the comfort level is of question no doubt. But there are much better alternatives these days. Homestays are slowly coming up, so are sublets and nature camps. Airbnb has started featuring some of the bigger cities and so has Hostelworld.

The facilities one comes to expect from the hostels in UK, some parts of US or even in some pockets of Asia like Singapore, Malaysia are seldom found here for the same price tags. Wifi for one is scarce. Parking spaces are almost non-existent, so is access to hot water. Mind you, I am talking about shoestring, frugal travel here. Dormitories can be found, but are usually not the most preferred. Other options which are really mushrooming these days are plantation houses and farmstays.

Why backpack in India and where to go

India has it all – be it its tenacious touts or the crazy crush of mechanical as well as human traffic, absolutely stunning natural vistas, solitude, and mix of other experiences that no other destination can offer. Do not let the petulant first impressions take away the bright points of the country. This is one nation which is truly multidimensional. Take time to scratch below the gritty surface and what you’ll find are glittering gems — beautiful ancient monuments, a myriad of performing-arts scenes, some of the subcontinent’s most loved eateries, adventure environs that can give any place a run for their money. But what attracts most is the guarantee that it will be a life-changing experience.

In Kerala By VinothChandar

It’s easy to list out at least five major cities or tourist destinations in the country. But are they the best places to backpack in the country? Perhaps not. It completely depends on your take of it. I guess, for many, the destination is the focal point. But for the rest of us where experiences are more important than the destination, picking a place is not that important.

Do I choose the fantastic harmony beneath the chaos of Kolkata (read Kolkata on foot), the hypnotic pull that everyone seems to be speaking about for Mumbai? Do I hit the once hippie spots of Goa? But then, I would really not be backpacking – it would be just any other frugal trip.

From what I have seen, in our country, it is much easier to backpack along the offbeat lanes. Or at least away from the big cities. I found it much easier to have a chat, explain myself, and turn in for the night at the home of a camel owner from Khuri, Rajasthan, than to find a clean room for the amount I was aiming at, in Dadar, Mumbai.

For the true experience, head off to trails rather than destinations. Start off from Delhi, meander through Shimla, catch hold of the local buses from Jammu, onward to Katra, stop midway to be frisked by the security, camp overnight with the locals in Tiger Hill, speculate at Magnetic Hill, meditate in Pangong Tso. Catch a local bus carrying the day’s groceries from Shillong to the wettest place on earth, Cherrapunji.

Looking into the evening sun - Cherrapunji

Head over to the coffee plantations of Coorg, stay over at maybe the Honey Valley in Yavakapady Village, perched atop what perhaps what is the most complicated ascent of Mount Tadiandamol, or lose yourself at the Hermitage Guesthouse in Nersa Village. There, listen to David’s (the owner) tales of how he built his eco-resort by baking his own bricks and laying them down by himself. Take a dip in the uphill environs of the Mandovi river, over conversations on sustainable development with a red faced but very gentle German fellow traveler. That’s how I backpacked and that’s how I understand it.

At the Hermitage - Bear Hill, Nersa Village

 Some retrospectives

Travel in our country is still predominantly a family and male dominated thing-to-do. Although solo women travelers are quickly joining in (read Solo women traveling and insights from a lady travel bug). There is the ‘thing’ about race that I had previously mentioned. We totally love foreigners. Not so much ourselves. If you are a westerner planning to backpack in India, let me assure you, you will have a great time – if you are not too much affected by our way with colours, loudness, and other things that make, what we now call culture. But on the hospitality part, I am pretty sure you will have little to complain about.

early morning desert bonfire At Khuri By DraconianRain

-Debnath