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Travelling Solo – Insights from a lady travelbug

May 28, 2012 – 3:38 am

Travelling Solo that too by females in the conservative societies always raises eyebrows. Most people find it weird and not worth the risk involved. There are concerns on loneliness during the travel as much as on the safety and security. I guess a bit of that comes from the fact that traditionally women were not too well versed with the outside world, they were obviously lesser in number in places like hotels or lodges and the families were not confident if women can manage on their own. Even after so many of us have travelled alone for work or for pleasure, it still makes a curious case for most people when you tell them that you love to travel alone.

Train : Singapore to Kuala Lumpur by James Evans

Train : Singapore to Kuala Lumpur by James Evans

After I had travelled alone many times including to some remote locations, someone asked me what is it that I loved about travelling alone and that made me think about it. I took a step back and questioned why do I travel in the first place. Looking back I realized that I travel to cut off from my existing world and I travel to engage with a world that is very different from mine. I travel to meet those people whom I would never meet in my day-to-day life, where I mostly meet people who are more or less like me. I travel to find the basic common denominator shared by all living human civilizations and the to find the differences or characteristics that make each of us unique in our own ways. I like to sit back and observe the land and its people sometimes and at other times I participate in their lives through conversations.

Bamboo train near Battambang, Cambodia by Noud Wieland

Bamboo train near Battambang, Cambodia by Noud Wieland

Sometimes I am like an ethnographer, who likes to be a participant observer. At the same time I am also an ambassador of my own culture and land. I learn about the place I am visiting through my direct and indirect interactions while I also dispel myths about my city, country, community, caste, religion, and gender. There is some kind of osmosis that starts happening and the end of it I know a lot about the place I visited and a few people know me, or what I stand for.

Next I tried to find a logical, rational answer to why I like to travel Solo. I figured that biggest reason for my preference for Solo travelling is the fact that when you travel alone you are hundred percent in the place beneath your feet. There is no constant reminder of the place you have come from and you will be going back to. When you travel with your spouse, you may keep going through your to do lists and keep reminding each other of what needs to be done after you go back, or you may keep comparing this trip to the one of the earlier ones. When you travel with friends, you keep going back to the common thing that binds you be it the school you went together to, or the office you shared or the hobbies that you pursue. Even when you travel in groups where you do not know anyone on day one, by second day you would have found something common with everyone.

As you go through the streets of Vrindavan by Anuradha Goyal

As you go through the streets of Vrindavan by Anuradha Goyal

This focus on the common does not let you immerse completely in the place, and whatever extent you manage to immerse it is difficult to be non-judgmental. The moment you start comparing, the judgment creeps in and takes away the joy of sheer immersion. I have been able to suspend my judgment when I travelled alone, that in itself is a pleasure that we hardly get in our routine lives. In fact most of the times I try and travel without the gadgets that keep me connected to my home. Just make one call home a day to tell them I am fine and be ensured that everything back home is OK, and spend the rest of the 23 hours 55 minutes in the place you are. Stories can be shared once I am back. Internet is used only to get information about the place and not to engage with people and activities that will again pull me into my home world.

Next to the being bound to your roots comes the extent of freedom. We know that attachments always take away a bit of our freedom and more the attachments more the loss of freedom. No matter how considerate your co-travelers are, they do take away a bit of your freedom. Each of us has our own way of travelling, our choices of what we like to do and our own pace to see a place. I like to go for early morning walks, I like to see the place waking up, when people are yet to wear their masks, when they are yet to wear their roles and responsibilities, when their thoughts are still pure and when they are not really conscious of the world around them. Now to get up early morning is not an exciting idea for most people who travel to relax. I like to sit and chat with common people and listen to their thoughts, and it takes some effort to make people comfortable to be able to talk to you, and let go of the walls that separate you.

The tea gardens in Assam by Anuradha Goyal

The tea gardens in Assam by Anuradha Goyal

Not many people are willing to invest that kind of effort in opening channels with apparently insignificant people. Sometimes I want to spend whole day in a museum studying the artifacts and reading the material and talking to people who know more about the displays there. Museums are again not a great favorite with many people. The crux is that when I am alone I am in complete control of my time and can engage in activities that I truly enjoy without any need to oblige anyone or to return an obligation. Imagine studying a museum when you know someone outside is wasting his or her time because of your love for the subject. Even that guilt takes away some joy and you try to compensate it somewhere else, by going to places where you may not go if you were travelling alone.

An obvious corollary of the freedom is the flexibility. Real travelers travel with a curiosity in their hearts and minds, which means they keep their eyes and ears open for anything that they have not expected from the trip. They are always open to a new experience – be it a conversation about a subject they know nothing about, a new taste, a new place, a new perspective or just about anything. To truly experience this, the plans need to be flexible, you should willing to change your plans on the go, or trade off your existing plans for the new ones instantly. It is easy when you are on your own and can take all your decisions yourself without having to discuss or negotiate with anyone.

If you have travelled alone at some point in time, you would have experienced all my rational and logical reasons to some extent.

My next question was what do I really yearn for that a solo travel promises to provide me. Let me share a sensitive experience that I have had as and when I travelled alone. When I am plugged out from my routine life, in an entirely new setting where everything is new to me, I have all the freedom and control of my time and space, I see the birth of poetry in me. I do not make an effort, it just happens. The visuals and experiences just take the shape of rhyming words and flow on paper or the keypad. I just sit there like an observer through which the experiences translate themselves into words. Words that describe the place, describe the tender relationship between the place and me, the new realizations, new insights and the new feelings. Poetry happens when you are sensitive to the surroundings, when you can sense beyond the obvious, bond with the subconscious. For some reasons, it always happens when I travel alone. Does that mean that travelling alone makes me far more sensitive to the environment I am in? – Definitely yes. It lets me bond with the surroundings, it lets me be a part of it and somehow those days that I have spent there become a part of the place as much as they become a part of me. There is a sharing that happens. The place remains an alien when I am not alone, because I am not giving it my hundred percent.

Yes, there are some inconveniences in travelling alone, it can be boring at times, it definitely works out costlier but when I weigh them against the experiences that it gives me, I prefer to choose it over any other kind of travel.

-Anuradha

About the Author:

Anuradha Goyal

Innovation Consultant (Hyderabad)

An avid traveler and blogger, Anuradha’s blog has been featured in the top 50 travel blogs in the world, and is regularly listed among the best blogs of the country. She used to be an IT professional working with global giants like Coca Cola and Infosys, before she gave in to travelust.  In her own words:

“I am an eternal nomad, having lived in 14 cities across the country and couple of them outside. At the moment Hyderabad is home to me. I think I was born to roam around. If road was a city or a country, I am sure I would be one of its citizens.

Some accolades came on the way like this blog was rated as one of the 50 best blogs on travel around the world. It constantly features in the best blog lists of India. I was interviewed by the P7 channel as a Travel Guru.“

Innovation Blog | Travel Blog | Book Reviews

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Copenhagen – City under 50 Euros

May 5, 2012 – 10:00 am

Indeed, the coolest, the most cosmopolitan, exciting and as Danny Kaye said, the most wonderful city in entire Scandinavia (let’s give it a rest, Stockholm) is Copenhagen (København). And it’s a our next city to explore on a frugal note, after our take at Paris under 50 Euros. The joie de vivre in the air is unmistakable where reverberates fascination – oozing from café on a summer day or from gazing at the sculptures in Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek.

Copenhagen Bike Culture by Mikael Colville-Andersen

Copenhagen Bike Culture by Mikael Colville-Andersen

Copenhagen is not cheap. Not this way or that. But economical? Well that can very well be managed. The city’s brilliance is so apparent that it is not a necessity to shell out those Krones to take in the best.

Morning: Harry’s Place, Døp hotdogs and Abnormal Analogies

“As big as winning the handball world cup” – one of Copenhagen’s most loved chefs said this when, noma, René Redzepi’sgastronomical masterpiece which tried to pay the world’s due to the Nordic produces was declared the best restaurant in the world. It is important to have Danish or  particularly pure Parisian blood running through the veins to understand the importance of that analogy. However, the prices are queenly and relatively, the chances of finding an empty table here is just as likely as being invited to the Queen’s Palace for dinner.

Espressomanden or Esspresso Man by Mikael Colville-Andersen

Espressomanden or Esspresso Man by Mikael Colville-Andersen

However, all hope is not lost. In fact, quite the reverse. The locals, voted on their favourite newspaper Politiken for their most loved Copenhagen eatery, and the winner was the humble hotdog stall of Den Økologiske Pølsemand (literally, the organic hotdog man). Better known as the Døpfor short, it makes for the perfect breakfast stop. Sitting right next to the Round Tower in the city centre, it dishes out lip-smacking grilled pork and beef sausages along with buns that are nurtured from slow-fermented sourdough bread and linseed.

Organic hotdog by sarah_lincoln

Organic hotdog by sarah_lincoln

For a more classic variety, there’s Harry’s Place on the outskirts of the Nørrebro district. The place has been around for over five decades now and has among its glitzy list of patrons, two of Copenhagen’s former prime ministers. Its pièce de résistance is a 150g wiener called Børge, allegedly named after a lorry driver who used to consume three of the sausages during his daily visits – Comments The Guardian. 

Cost: A Børge with bread and condiments (ask for the secret “gun powder” sauce) comes for 3.49 Euro, an brillaint organic hotdog at the Døp for 4.84 Euro.

Day: The Cycles and Vintage falafel

9 in 10 Danish adults own a cycle (bike if you prefer). The Cycling Embassy of Denmark is an organization that promotes biking in the city and has done a mighty good job out of it – Copenhagen is among the most bicycle-crazy cities on earth. For us, it translates into an ultra cheap mode of travel, coupled with lovely sightseeing opportunities. Exploration while on a saddle is a snap, it is also the best way to get the best out of Copenhagen.

Copenhagen Fashionista on Wheels by Mikael Colville-Andersen

Copenhagen Fashionista on Wheels by Mikael Colville-Andersen

For a leisure pedal, there is the grassy Assistens Kirkegaard cemetery (here is buried many luminaries the likes of Hans Christian Andersen and Soren Kierkegaard), a great place for some sober wandering and then some picnic time – a favorite to many Danes. Alternately, a more dotted experience is to cruise along the city center while admiring the flamboyant but stately Amalienborg Palace (Slotsplads), where live the reigning Queen Margrethe II lives, and the Dutch Renaissance-style stock exchange called the Borsen – a very unique facade, specially with its dragon-tail spire.

Not to mention, there are fantastic view of the city’s orange-tile roofs and green copper domes to look out for. The vistas from atop the gilded candy-twist spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke (Sankt Annae Gade 29) are particularly striking.

Cost: The Baisikeli (Turesensgade 10) has rentals from 6.72 Euro for a half-day.

copenhagen...from above by me, charlotte

copenhagen...from above by me, charlotte

A unique decor complete with old time accessories mounted on the walls, a lovely intimate atmosphere, furniture from the 50′s, fantastic food and service that is just perfection, the Kalaset (Vendersgade 16) makes choosing difficult. Essentially organic, they get their ingredients from bio-farm. One more reason to try out this place. Definitely worth trying out is their falafel. And the potatoes with rosemary, French fries and cheese are to die for.

Cost: Around 2 to 5 Euro for a lunch.

kalaset by Mike Towbe

kalaset by Mike Towbe

Afternoon: Medicine, Music and Breweries

Hidden away right at the end of Bredgade, is Copenhagen’s Museum of Medical History (also called as the Medical Museion) which is a part of the University of Copenhagen and this museum is quite certainly one of the city’s best hidden gems. Containing many historic medical instruments which rather often look like methods of torture, chairs that were meant for examining prostitutes and cholera stretchers amongst many other exhibits. The atmosphere is known to get particularly ghoulish for some.

Cost: Entry 7 Euro

The Carlsberg Byen (yes, that particular brand) has been around for hundreds of years, at the very heart of Denmark’s brewing industry. The bulk of the brewing process has however been moved elsewhere now but that has only helped in rejuvenating this amazing industrial quarter into what it is now; a collection of vibrant galleries, lovely theaters and other attractions.

Carlsberg Brewery (Source: jill, jellidonut… whatever) 

There’s a quite dramatic elephant archway which stands at the entrance on Ny Carlsbergvej. Quite a few things to check out here – the gallery complex of Ny Carlsbergvej 68; the amazing dance theater and center DANSEhallerne (not to mention its foyer cafe, Elefanten); the calm and serenity of J.C. Jacobsens Park; and of course, the brewery’s museum. But we need to choose any one of these so that we keep within both the time and money constraint.

Cost: DANSEhallerne entry at 7 Euro, show tickets usually start around 6 to 10 Euro

Evening and Night: Books and Gypsy Trumpets.

For this one, one needs to have the eye. For long, Norrebro has ben the working-class mixed-ethnicity melting pot of Copenhagen. And now, also a very diverse party spot. For one, the neighborhood is literally covered in punk street art.

In Norrebro by Blastframe

In Norrebro by Blastframe

The Underwood Ink feels more like a living room full on eclectic intellectuals than a drinking hole.  There are bookshelves packed with international literature (these are for sale), some obscure paintings by even more obscure European artists (also for sale) and the tables piled are stacked with with microbrewed Danish beer bottles. A local recommends the sweet-sour Porse Guld.

At Underwood Ink by Kieran Lynam

At Underwood Ink by Kieran Lynam

A few blocks away, is the meeting place of world-music geeks, hippies and grad students where thy swig Cuban Cristal beer. The Global is a cozy little space with an elevated stage showcasing some really wide-ranging acts the likes of  Mali’s Bassekou Kouyate and scores from the rather popular Serbian Gypsy trumpet legend by the name of Boban Markovic.

For dinner, an ideal place would be the Tight, where is an authentic Danish lifestyle; with mix of cuisine, prompt service, both indoor and outdoor seating, and of course, great food. Particularly endearing is theirseafood pasta, the amazing white wine and steamed mussels.

Cost: drinks at Global or Underwood Ink at around 8 Euro and dinner at Tight for around 6 Euro

Tight! by whatleydude

Tight! by whatleydude

There’s a lot to travel that is best done frugal. And often, they are the best ones.

-Debnath

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Kolkata on foot – the best walking trails

April 8, 2012 – 4:53 pm

There is something about Kolkata that anyone who has visited it, finds inexplicable. They call it the “City of Joy”. I reckon, it is not all about the people living in apparent happiness. There is the “adda”, which essentially means gossip. But is so much more. I found it to be more of a ritual. Something so intrinsically woven in the society that it cannot be seen as a separate entity at all. Not too long ago, I found myself walking the roads of Kolkata, the dSLR in hand, snapping away.

Kolkata, in 2011 by b_debnath

Kolkata, in 2011 by b_debnath

I noticed a few things as soon as I stepped out. First that the city is incredibly camera friendly. Perhaps it stems from the city’s unbelievable familiarity with arts; classic, performing and the modern. The second was a realization that the bloke who attached “joy” to the city’s name, must have been in a poetic trance and at his allegorical best. This I say because the city, while by no means is a personification of all things nice, somehow, brings out an intense feeling of elation.

Carrying Religion by b_debnath

Carrying Religion by b_debnath

The third thing that I figured, and this has the most to do with this post, was that it is on foot that the city is best appreciated. While I had the pleasure of the company of one of Kolkata’s oldest families, not all who wander here can be expected to have such acquaintances. Not that one will have to look too far for direction. The people are living information directories here. While most Westerners, with the possible exception of La Nuit Bengali (a Bengali Night), have interpreted it as a city of struggle, many others are infuriated by this one-sided depiction.

Kolkata, I found, is deeply etched in an era, and a sensibility that is lost in time – an immense city which comes out as a celebration of human existence playing out right in front of the eyes.

the rickshaws by b_debnath

the rickshaws by b_debnath

Coming back to the walking part. While I was trying to discover as much as I could in the little time I had in hand, I saw things I did not expect. Plazas the kind one would find in Seville, or Rome. The kinds that are glorified by the guidebooks. I found Gothic architecture in the middle of the street, Russian styled apartments built in the late 1800′s and people still living in them. I saw gargoyles atop staircases and weather-vanes made of iron; the types no longer built. And hence this post. A collection of some of the best routes in the city that are well worth the walk.

at the Victoria Memorial by b_debnath

at the Victoria Memorial by b_debnath

College Street – The Renaissance Trail

Kolkata Magic runs the Renaissance Walk in the captivating College Street -  the hub of the social and intellectual concerns that had once shaped India. The area was the epicenter of the Indian renaissance and as the phenomenon goes, was the forum for questioning orthodoxies. Although called ‘street’, it is more like a neighborhood and as any neighborhood in Kolkata goes, a huge melting pot of cultures. A crazy network of lanes stock full of books. Used and new publications alike. There are gems to be found here. In fact, local literary evangelists haunt the street to pick out rare first editions and signed copies. Some even manuscripts, easily dating back a century if not more.

College Street: librairies by sandrinecohen22

College Street: librairies by sandrinecohen22

And then there is the hugely popular Coffee House. A place of intellectual importance where in times of financial decadence, emerging artists, poets, musicians and journalists exchanged ideas, hopes, philosophies and carefully guarded dreams. There is a cult song by a popular singer Manna Dey, where he reminisces his own time there. Here is Kolkata at its literary and intellectual best.

Calcutta Coffee House by lecercle

Calcutta Coffee House by lecercle

Kumartuli – about creating religion

The Durga Puja is an event like nothing I have seen. And I have seen a good share of festivals and rituals. The colours, the glamour, the fascinating ladies, and the astounding art create a world of their own.

At Kumartuli, artisans in seemingly endless lines of idols lit by light bulbs, tirelessly practice the craft. The walk fringes along the riverside, meandering along the living quarters of the artisans, the place where the material for the idols is sourced from, and a myriad of other associated sights. Walks of India rediscovers Kumartuli and its internationally renowned artisans who create magic out of straw and clay.

Kumartuli - Were we made with this care? by NesQuarX

Kumartuli - Were we made with this care? by NesQuarX

Sovabazar and Kolkata’s royal side

Another Walks of India endeavor that concentrates on the city’s royal limbs. A neighborhood that once was home to Kolkata’s upper social strata, it now represents a flamboyant cosmopolitan melting pot. With unique architecture of the city’s aboriginal dwellings forming a backdrop. This is where the richer Bengalis made their homes. Call it the Beverly Hills of Kolkata, or the other way round if it so pleases you. Either way, a great place to check out India’s secular architecture, which goes back centuries.

Somewhere in Sovabazar by Proxy Indian

Somewhere in Sovabazar by Proxy Indian

Here is an unbelievable number of grand palatial homes, many of them still house Kolkata’s erstwhile royalties. Such properties have the usual characteristics of flowing courtyards, massive rooms, endemic window leaves and intrinsically made arches. Punctuating these old houses are some small press establishments. Places which printed the first volumes during the city’s renaissance.  There’s street-food to look out for, those fantastic egg-roles and the city’s version of Chinese. During the fight for independence, the streets of Sovabazar was known to be particularly notorious – the extremists were able to ‘vanish’ at will among the numerous narrow lanes; the opposing walls easily keeping off any vehicles. An art of disappearing that often led the pursing British to either annoyance or suspicion of voodoo.

The Flower Market and the quintessential Howrah Bridge

Kolkata Magic conducts this tower. However, I would say it can well be done independently. The area, although a mayhem of activity, does not really require a guide, being right beside the transport hub of the city, the Howrah station. The Flower Market is a one of its kind real-life spectacle. No discernible market lanes, stalls or even a well defined boundary. But rather, a huge open space, a riot of colours, and countless vendors selling flowers by the tons. By far not a tourist attraction. The sight of an old man siting by himself in a comparatively quieter nook and reading a newspaper in such profound peace and content, and once again, “City of Joy” rings a bell; more audible now.

Flower Power by lecercle

Flower Power by lecercle

The market is almost directly under the Howrah Bridge which is quite a photogenic landmark. So much, that enough has been said about it. Wandering enough towards the east leads to more hidden culture – an entire market just dealing with mustard oil. And I mean an entire market – streets of it! Next comes a market for onions. I was told, as I sat inside one of those lovely yellow cabs, that I was seeing the outer reaches of the “Bara Bazar”. I got an idea of just how large that might be.

The Howrah Bridge by b_debnath

The Howrah Bridge by b_debnath

From the little that I saw, two things were very clear – that Kolkata deserves a re-look, and that it will easily take a very large number of visits before I can say “been there, done that”. Some of the pictures in the post were taken in late October, at a time when perhaps, Kolkata is at its glamorous best.

-Debnath

The Durga Puja by b_debnath

The Durga Puja by b_debnath

 

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The Greatest Roadtrips – North West Scotland

April 4, 2012 – 7:07 pm

It’s time to follow up with the “Greatest Roadtrips” series. Last time, it was the vast expanse of Outback Australia. This time around, it is the stunning Scottish Highlands and the marathon drive starts from good ol’ London. From there, up till Fort William is a rather easy and simple enough drive. Fort William works as the age-old gateway to the Scottish wonders and it proves to be a lovely place for an overnight halt. Form here starts the real trip. After poking around Fort William, it is the Inverness, and then finally into the highlands.

by atomicjeep

by atomicjeep

The Route

For the London to Fort William leg, the most convenient stop has always been Blackpool. While there are three major cities in the vicinity, namely Liverpool, Manchester and Leeds, I figured that a little more charm and a little less buzz are on the cards. From London (Westminster to be precise) to Blackpool is 384 km – about 4:30 hours of driving and from Blackpool to Fort William is 486 km – about 5 hours 35 mins drive. Then comes Ullapool, Laide (Achnasheen), Gairloch, Lochcarron (Strathcarron) and Rubha Reidh.

Scotland, the roads (Source: Graham Campbell)

Scotland, the roads by Graham Campbell

Of Islands, Lighthouses and Platform Nine and Three quarters

Fort William

Fort William stands as a bustling town which thrives on the throng of summer tourists and comes across as a town overflowing with countless shops, hotels, and cafes. A particular reason for its popularity is that Fort William provides for the perfect stop-over from Edinburgh to Inverness. Walking down the water fringed alleys, in Town Pier is Crannog Seafood Restaurant where scrumptious mains come at £13; a great place for a perfectly timed dinner and an optimal way to start the trip. What was once a ticket office and bait store, this quayside eatery overlooking the Loch Linnhe serves seafood so fresh that locals often chime “it fairly leaps at you.” The ingredients are usually either from the owners own fishing vessels or their smokehouse and the bouillabaisse, the king prawns or the langoustines are always out of the world. And while here, why not throw in a dash of harmless fantasy, and hop onto the Hogwarts Express on Platform 9 and 3 quarters!

Hogwarts Express by johntrathome

Hogwarts Express by johntrathome

Scotland’s legendary West Highland Line is dubbed the Hogwarts Express Train line, photogenically featured in the Harry Potter films when Harry and crew are transported by train to Hogwarts School from King’s Cross Station’s Platform 9 3/4. The route winds through Highlands valleys and beside lochs and glens. It begins in the Highlands capital, Fort William, under the shadow of Ben Nevis at the southern end of the Great Glen.

The Hogwarts Express Train stops on request at the quiet little village of Arisaig before carrying on to Mallaig, the ferry port for the Isle of Skye. Arisaig comes across as the muggle version of Hogsmead with lovely views stretching across the waters. The little harbor town is so small that discovering it over foot is quite doable. And a good place form some classic British fish and chips.

Platform 9 3/4 by katclay

Platform 9 3/4 by katclay

Inverness

Fort William to Inverness is just over 100 km, an easy drive for about about an hour and a half. This royal burgh and seaport in the north end of Great Glen lies nestled by the Ness River. For the amount of history associated with this town, there is a surprising lack of ‘sight-seeing’ options. But that does not mean that the place is barren; in fact quite the opposite if looked underneath. Moreover, it serves as a good base for touring the rest of the region.
Kessock Bridge Inverness Scotland by Bruiach/ Colin Campbell

Kessock Bridge Inverness Scotland by Bruiach/ Colin Campbell

For a nightcap, going on a daytrip to the Orkney Islands nearby comes across as a prime idea. A good bout of things to keep occupied with, including the Skara Brae, The Churchill Barriers, Scapa Flow, The Ring of Brodgar, The Standing Stones of Stenness and The Italian Chapel. And while at it, a stop is warranted at Kirkwall where, well hidden, is the 12th century cathedral of St Magnus. Back in town, in Contrast Brasserie at 22 Ness Bank, the dining room exudes designer style and smiling service. Not to mention the jug of water that is brought in without asking (if you have traveled through England, you’ll know it’s not common), and of course, truly delicious food. The mussels with Thai red curry or the amazing wild mushroom risotto. A choice is difficult. And while on a backpacker’s budget, comes at a steal at £10 for a two-course lunch.

Ring of Brodgar by bluestardrop - Andrea Mucelli

Ring of Brodgar by bluestardrop by Andrea Mucelli

Post that, it’s time for some live music, after all, it just does not cut, if there’s no music at the doorway to Scotland. Hootananny at 67 Church St. is promised to be the city’s best venue to groove in. Traditional folk and sometimes rock sessions sparkle the nights regularly. They also some very big-name bands from all over the country. Alongside music, the bar is kept well stocked with a wide range of beer which come straight from the local Black Isle Brewery.

The locales’ biggest attraction no doubt remains the Ness Islands. And the leisurely stroll to get there does not hurt either. Amidst mature Scots pine, ancient fir, beech and more, the islands look lovely and are linked to the river banks through some really endearing and elegant Victorian footbridges.

Bridge to Ness Islands Inverness Scotland (Source: dave conner)

Bridge to Ness Islands Inverness Scotland by dave conner

Ullapool

From Inverness to Ullapool, it is about 90 km and takes about 1 hour 19 mins. From here, I will be keeping off all the big cities and will take turns off the mainstream to keep things quaint and explore the more remote areas. First stop: Ullapool – the harbourside façade that looks like it has leaped out of a postcard. On a sunny day the reflections of the surrounding rocks on the bay look breathtaking. The town itself is pretty and can be wandered around in half and hour or so. Most people end up walking over to the pretty but still functioning harbour, down to the loch or up the hill behind the town that, for very little effort, which provides for wonderful views of the town and over to the Summer Isles.

Ullapool (Source: Pelle Sten)

Ullapool by Pelle Sten

There is a ferry service that connects Ullapool to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, bringing in a consistent flow of jolly overnighters along with it. While there are only a few attractions per-se, an abundance of great walking paths, piles of amazing accommodation options, and not to mention the unlimited delectable seafood make this please particularly endearing. The Ullapool Bookshop at Quay St. gives a feel of a bibliophile’s old and dusty version of the town. They are nicely stocked with some gems of Scottish history and culture and the local maps come handy.

Next stop is the FBI. Not the agency, but the Ferry Boat Inn which happens to be as important to Ullapool as the castle is to Edinburgh. The wood is now bleached and the carpets unstained. That take away some of the old charm but still is a great place for the locals to mingle and have some fantastic food. The Rhue Studio lies 2.5 miles northwest of Ullapool and is home to some amazing contemporary art from the local favorite James Hawkins.

Ullapool Harbour (Source: Matthew Wilkinson)

Ullapool Harbour by Matthew Wilkinson

Laide and Gairloch

Ullapool to Laide is just 66 kms and the drive takes about an hour. If remote is defined by a tiny seaside hamlet with one small hotel, a church, one post office, a camp site and a petrol station, Laide then is the perfect example. The whole place is an attraction unto itself and the breathtaking views of the Gruinard Bay along with the ruins make for a place perfect to just forget the outside world. What makes it even better is that the locals have opened up to taking guests; a plethora of Bed and Breakfasts. Particularly popular is the Lover Croft Guest House.
Laide coast (Source: Chris)

Laide coast by Chris

About 24 km and 20 mins or driving from Laide is Gairloch - another small settlement that has a number of distinct points of focus. Charlestown is the most southernly point where lies the quaint little harbour. The road meanders toward the Gairloch Golf Club which overlooks a beautiful beach. Nestled nearby are two churches – a brown stoned Free Church with stunning views and the white-harled kirk more on the inland. Nearby is the Gairloch Heritage Museum.

Gairloch Free Church of Scotland, Gairloch (Source: stu smith)

Gairloch Free Church of Scotland, Gairloch by stu smith

Lochcarron

From Gairloch, Lochcarron, it is about 80 kms; a little over an hour’s drive. Home to prestigious woven fabrics and exclusive knitwear, Lochcarron is a very small village that spreads over a line of about a mile along the north-eastern coastal shore. Once again, the main attractions are the seemingly endless number of views it offers. The village also has a large number of quaint shops selling the local fare and by far the richest selection of accommodation options between Kyle of Lochalsh and Gairloch. There is a wealth of accommodations for visitors from efficiency units to hotels as well as a delightful selection of quaint stores for some shopping enjoyment. The fishing heritage of the town is evident in the concrete pier and the small harbour with its fishing boats. The road tends to bypass the southern part of the town.

Rua Reidh Lighthouse Hostel

From Lochcarron to Rua Reidh, it is about a 126 kms and takes close to 2 hours. Also known as the Rubah Reidh, or the Rubh’Re Point, this even tinier and remote hamlet is known for its light house. A lighthouse on Rubh’Re Point was first proposed by David Stevenson in 1853. Building was started by his son, David Alan Stevenson in 1908 and the light was first lit on 15 January 1912.
Rua Reidh Lighthouse by ms.akr

Rua Reidh Lighthouse by ms.akr

There’s the original Fresnel lens from here now housed in the Gairloch Heritage Museum. The lighthouse has been turned to a picturesque hostel. Definitely recommended for a night’s stay. And it just makes a beautiful day even better, walking up to this gorgeous lighthouse and the trek was well worth it and of course, the views are spectacular. Access to the lighthouse grounds are however restricted to hostel guests. There is also a small tea room. The guesthouse management also offers a personalized walking tour organized here that promises to be quite rewarding.

Rua Reidh lighthouse foghorn mechanism by Shandchem

Rua Reidh lighthouse foghorn mechanism by Shandchem

Roadtrips have something about them. The tar, the engine, the breeze, and their uncanny habit of unearthing something unique to marvel at every single time. No matter how well trodden the path is.

-Debnath

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Spectacular Journeys on the Indian Railways

February 28, 2012 – 12:50 am

It is often said that if one wants to see India and not merely visit it, then the best way to do that would be on the Indian Railways. Owned by the Govt. of India, the Indian Railways are the fourth largest in terms of route kilometers, employs 1.36 million people and carries an astonishing 30 million passengers  a day. Given the vastness of the country and the breadth of its coverage, the railways traverse through some of most spectacular landscapes on Earth – from rich, dense rain forests to skirting snow-peaked mountains through to the vastness of deserts.

In this first part, a list of some of these routes and the brilliant local cuisine they offer.

The Sea of Milk

Hospet to Vasco Da Gama

Hospet is the railhead for Hampi, the former capital of the Vijaynagara Empire.  Once you are done exploring that amazing place, hop on to the Goa bound Amravati Express. Watch as the dry, ore rich landscape change into green pristine paradise. First big stop is the city of Hubli. Don’t forget to grab the masala dosas and vadas from the stall at the end of platform 2! Past Hubli, the train skirts the forest of Dandeli, climbs and arrives at Londa. From here it is a breathtaking descent to Goa through some of the richest and oldest rain forests in the world. Midway through the leg from Londa is the spectacular Dudhsagar Falls, barely 200 ft from the railway line. During monsoons, the entire coach is covered by spray from the thunderous falls.

Pic. by Shashanka Nanda

Once the descent is complete to Goa, look out for beautiful beaches and villages beyond Madgaon.

Best time to go?
Early or late monsoon.

What to see?
From Hubli to Londa: dense forests and rolling hills terraced rice fields.
From Londa to Madgaon: spectacular vistas, deep valleys, Dudhsagar Falls and beautiful Goan villages.

What to eat?
Hubli Stn: Dosas and Vadas.
Londa Stn: Vada Pav

Best train?
Howrah – Vasco Da Gama Amaravati Express

The Idli and Gopuram Roll

Chennai to Rameshwaram via the Cauvery Delta

If you like your temples and your idlis, then there is no better place on earth to experience them than in the Cauvery Delta. Start your journey from Chennai on the Trichy bound Cholan Express and wind your way through historical towns like Panruti, Chidambaram, Sirkazhi, Vaitheeswaran Koil, Mayavaram, Kumbakonam and Thanjavur. Each with its magnificent temples soaring high above the verdant green paddy and visible from miles out. Stay overnight at Trichy and pick up the morning passenger to Rameshwaram. Roll through more green paddy, beautiful Chettinad country and finally cross over from mainland India on the amazing Pamban sea bridge.

Best time to go?
October to February. When the weather is relatively pleasant and the monsoon on the horizon.

What to see?
Before Trichy: If you the religious types or deeply interested in temple architecture, then each big town should be a stop. Chidambaram, Vaitheeswaran Koil, Kumbakonam and Thanjavur all have magnificent temples. But if you have too chose one, get off at Thanjavur to see the “Big Temple”. Built in the late 11th century, it has no parallel in scale and execution.

After Trichy: Hop off at Karaikudi, head to the nearby bus stand and take a bus to a village called Kanadukathan. This is a wonderfully preserved place with traditional Chettinad homes, palaces and a beautiful temple. Two streets away from the main palace is Narayana Lunch Home – the place for an authentic Chettinad meal.

Rameshwaram: The wonderful Pamban sea bridge from Mandapam to Pamban. The Ramanathaswamy and Kothandraswamy temples.

What to eat?
Villupuram Stn – Masala Vadai
Kumbakonam Stn – Onion Bajji and Filter Coffee in a traditional stainless steel tumbler and dawara
Thanjavur Stn – Dosai, Idiyappam, Pongal, Vadai and Coffee
Trichy Stn – Pepper Chicken Briyani at the Chettinad food stall (just outside the main building)
Karaikudi – Full Chettinad meals at Narayana Lunch Home in Kanadukathan

Best train?
The 16853 Cholan Express from Chennai Egmore to Trichy
The 16701 Express from Trichy to Rameshwaram

Looking for Mowgli

Nagpur to Jabaplur via Chhindwara

Always wondered where Mowgli, Shere Khan, Bagheera, Baloo, Kaa and Akela lived? Well, wonder no more as you traverse the outer edges of the Pench forests on India’s largest remaining network of narrow gauge trains. Slow, often crowded and chugging along through dense forests, skirting waterfalls and leaping across deep ravines, these trains give you the best chance to put yourself in Jungle Book and imagine all the characters come alive.

If the pace is too slow and monotonous, hop off at Chhindwara and head to amazing Patalkot valley nearby – home to some of the rarest endogenous flora and fauna in the world. You could also take a break at Nainpur, a quaint town and railway junction that has a branch line to Mandla on the banks of the Narmada. Mandla has a old fort built by the Gond rulers and some wonderful vistas of the river from its numerous ghats.

Pic. by Shashanka Nanda

If you break at Nainpur, then use the only remaining express train on narrow gauge, the Satpura Express, to reach Jabalpur. This train even has a first class coach!

Best time to go?
September to February. The jungle comes alive in the monsoons and the winter adds a solemn, melancholy touch to the entire area.

What to see?
Raw, beautiful junglescape. Quaint villages and railway stations. Patalkot valley. Mandla Fort.

What to eat?
Ramakona Stn: Aloo Vadas, Samosas and Chai
Chhindwara: Poha, sev and adrak chai at any of the long chain of shops outside the station.
Nainpur Stn: Anything at the Non-Veg Refreshment Room!

Best train?
58833 passenger from Nagpur to Chhindwara
58849 passenger from Chhindwara to Nainpur
10001 Satpura express from Nainpur to Jabalpur

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Burma – the way of Rudyard Kipling, cheroots and monarchs

February 17, 2012 – 9:30 am

‘This is Burma’, coined Kipling. ‘It is quite unlike any place you know about’, he writes soon after. This South East Asian country is nothing like Malaysia, Thailand, or any other turquoise hued paradise. Myanmar remains worlds apart. 4000 sacred stupas dusted all over the planes of Bagan is more definitive. There is a “golden” rock teetering with magical impossibility upon the edge of a chasm. The women are smothered in thanaka and grannies chew betel leaf by the sack-full. And we have not yet left the airport!

The monks teach their cats to jump and trading jokes with monarchs who prefer to move their capitals based on the whims of fortune tellers seem like viable pass-times. Indeed, this is Burma. A place where real-gold buddhas are still bathed every single day upon the first light.

The author has forever connected to the country in images of sultry heat, temples and of course, his muse, thwarted love.

Asia } Myanmar/Burma } Nov 2010 (Source: travelmeasia)

Asia } Myanmar/Burma } Nov 2010 (Source: travelmeasia)

The mornings are routine. The usual haze, a muted noise of traffic rising from amidst dark foliage like the hot after-shower fumes. Men and women wear the same Burmese sarong and monks (it is wagered that every male in Burma is a monk at one time of his life or the other) carrying alms bowls ease through streets teeming with battered cars and rampaging rickshaws with the solemn tranquility that’s characterized with the religion. But post the alms ritual, all is not always serious.

Monks can have fun too! (Source: antwerpenR)

Monks can have fun too! (Source: antwerpenR)

Mandalay and Horses named Dolay

Mandalay gives a glimpse of the complexity that is Burma; leftovers of a British Empire, Buddhism, an ethnic melting pot and a long line of endemic monarchs.  An hour’s drive from Mandalay is a ferry river crossing over the Irrawaddy. Across the waters, the path continues and quite naturally, so does the journey. But this time on horse-drawn carts. It is customary for Burmese horse masters to give their steeds names like Dolay (aye, the Burmese nickname for Cristiano Ronaldo). The EPL is a religion here. After a dusty ride over hard-caked mud roads, its Ava. But very little remains of what was once Burma’s greatest capital.

The Horse Car (Source: DamienHR)

The Horse Car (Source: DamienHR)

While the red-brick ornate entrances still stand, and so does an off hand watchtower, the rest are ruins. But if Ayutthaya brings in throngs of visitors, Ava is just beginning to wake to the wonders of global tourism.

A monastery not far away gleams in centuries old teak. The engravings are dusty but the intricacy still shows even though the boards underneath the foot creak. One hall of the monastery now sports a blackboard, a few posters and many desks. Children with snotty noses sit at them. Pali, the language of ancient Buddhist scriptures is taught alongside English and Mathematics.  But the monks (yes, there is a flurry of saffron here too) know how to have fun too. A common scene is to find say 50 odd monks of all ages and varying degrees of baldness gather in a tea shop to watch Manchester United play off New Castle.

Inle Lake and Wayne Rooney

Scenes from a great human march comes to mind (pick any instance, God knows there have been many) when the flat land stretching from Mandalay to Inle Lake is seen from above.  There’s no electricity, agriculture still fuels the slim pulse of economy and temples threaten to outnumber huts. But nothing takes away the stunning beauty of the the lake and the villages that it waters.

Inle Lake - Leg Rowers, Myanmar (Source: yeowatzup)

Inle Lake - Leg Rowers, Myanmar (Source: yeowatzup)

Inle sits in the very heart of Burma; both the land and of its people. Here live the Shan folk. The aboriginals. However, the water seduces other tribes to trickle through (not that the Shan people are too thrilled about it). Particularly, the Intha and Pa-O. The Intha homes are huts still made of bamboo inter-weaved with a strong variety of wild grass.

Peering into one of these huts, cheroots can be seen rolled from homegrown tobacco – harvested in the mountains not too far. There are many who sit as a part of this eclectic group of tobacco rollers. A wrinkled old sweet lady picks one from the made bunches amidst common (but good natured) uproar and lights it. Not long after,  an equally wrinkled and sweet old man speaks up in something that most assuredly has to be a Burmese dialect. It does not take too long to realize though, that the seemingly foreign phrase was actually the name of a particularly popular Englishman by the name of Wayne Rooney.

old woman w cheroot (Source: daniel n. reid)

old woman w cheroot (Source: daniel n. reid)

A twin village across the lake gears up early in the day. It’s time for the weekly market. More tribes, mountain dwellers this time, trek down with heavy baskets full of lemon, avocados and many other fruits which I cannot name. Inle, and specially this weekly market serves as a very good introduction to just how heady the ethnic complexity of the land can be.

The Bagan Ruins and Peanuts

One look at Bagan and for all us Stephen King worshipers, a particular monologue comes to mind where a figure in black explains how, at the end of all things, it is size that defies us and not time. Lets say we throw in all those art galleries of Paris into a tiny island (and lets throw in a lot of Rome’s 900 churches for good measure) and it might start resembling, at least in number, what the Bagan looks like. It is a vast plain filled with temples that rival the Angkor in both history and pure exotic brilliance. There are as many as 4400 stupas here that are remnants from a period of over eight centuries.

Sunset over Bagan plain (Source: antwerpenR)

Sunset over Bagan plain (Source: antwerpenR)

The good lady herself once decided that she was tired of looking out at the Duchy of Cornwall from her window and after a lot of sailing, she found herself in these elvish groves. The lady started off a lacqueware factory to foster the industry that lived here since the eleventh century. But that’s not the only forte of the local folk. Something to do with Peanuts is one too. Men balanced atop bamboo tripods winnow the nuts. An act of grace, I would say, specially compared to the more rustic manner of  yanking the peanut plants out of the soil and spanking them with flattened bamboo staffs before they can be winnowed. At one point of time, peanuts were exported (often cigar shaped boats doing the local transport) to China, India, Thailand and other nearby countries. Not far away, along the streets, women are seen selling them.

a bag of peanuts (Source: antwerpenR)

a bag of peanuts (Source: antwerpenR)

Cycling along the dusty paths and amidst a millenia of history, it comes out that although they seemed the same from afar, not all of the four thousand odd stupas are the same. While, most of them resemble oversized bells, there are a few scattered here and there that are quite curiously shaped. The heady humidity arises more out of the left bank, and it is easy to guess that beyond the dense green, is the Irrawaddy.

Inside some of these temples, and mainly inside the rather important Hteik Pann pagoda are eleventh century frescoes; of mystical dancers. The stances and the form uncannily link back to India. Amidst the cylindrical walls, time is fuzzy.

Burma is a land with some rare departures from the regular. It has long stayed in the shadows and many still wish it stays that way. While an increased influx of people will not solve its many problems, Myanmar holds a unique promise.

-Debnath

Asia } Myanmar/Burma } Nov 2010 (Source: travelmeasia)

Asia } Myanmar/Burma } Nov 2010 (Source: travelmeasia)

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Top 5 Unique Spring Break Destinations

February 11, 2012 – 1:00 pm

Come the first visages of a waning winter, and like everything else, comes a new chapter in world travel. It is all over the twitter stream, google’s buzzing, the world’s social media is echoing with the words. Indeed its spring break that’s in the offing.

Of course, there hoards of destinations that have become synonymous with the time of the year. There’s Panama, Hawaii, the Bahamas, Cancun, and the list goes on. However, “same-old” is an adjective that I dread. And hence this list of top five unique spring break destinations for 2012 that we might not have thought of.

Silhouettes (Source: Tezza #)

Silhouettes (Source: Tezza #)

1. Cape Hatteras

Highway 12 runs along the entire length of Cape Hatteras (National Seashore), and this curvaceous bi-lane road gives the feeling of rather an amusement park ride. The strong waters of Pamlico Sound mushroom with an intense variety of marine life and the Atlantic Ocean lends in to the vistas with its milky whitecaps. The ride is upon a slender blacktop in between two overwhelming water bodies.

Cape Hatteras comes across as a water-sports paradise. Here are tiny villages which stay separated by pristine miles of unspoiled beaches. The National Seashore is protected against commercial growth and the natural abundance makes it one of East Coast’s best beach recreation spots, with an endless list of surfing, sailing, fishing, and scuba diving opportunities.

Source: bryan elkus

Source: bryan elkus

What makes this seashore so different from the major spring break venues is the fact that just 12 percent of the island is allowed to be commercially developed. The sea air is unadulterated and often, the salt in the wind comes as a surprise even for regular beach-bums.

Oceana’s Bistro brings in a dab of frolic to an otherwise silent paradise. The Tuesday night karaoke followed by some delectable Wednesday sushi make for perfect backdrops to the Thursday special events. Not to mention, the seafood is amazing. Local competition comes from The Froggy Dog Restaurant with fun late-night hangouts, with a game room and arcade.

2. Destin and Fort Walton Beach, Florida

Its called the “World’s Luckiest Fishing Village,” and it is easy to understand why. Florida has a plethora of destinations, specially whenever beach-side revelation is concerned. Destin has slowly grown as a flamboyant vacation spot along the panhandle.

Ever since it was founded in the 1830s, it has had a curious mix of personality, balanced between being a sleepy fishing town and a homely township of about 12,000 residents. The number has bloated up recently owing to its intimate, friendly atmosphere. Midwestern and Southern visitors are known to flock to its sparkling white shores each summer. Golfers can be seen traversing the seaside bunkers, while others snorkel and scuba dive off the coast and still more prefer chartering off a boat for deep-sea fishing.

room with a view (Source: The Rocketeer)

room with a view (Source: The Rocketeer)

Henderson Beach State Park here is a stretch of 1.5 miles of sandy beaches with unlimited scope for dives, and sun-bathing. Fort Walton Beach bums prefer whiling away on Okaloosa Island, which happens to be just one bridge away from town. There are thatched-roof deck shelters that dot the beaches and live reggae bands play at the AJ’s Club Bimini, a rage among the 20-somethings with it’s Caribbean rum drinks with the vistas of the Gulf of Mexico for a backdrop.

3. Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo, Mexico

Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo are poised four miles apart on Mexico’s sunny stretch along the Pacific Coast. Ixtapa, is custom made for vacationers along the crescent of a pristine beach – complete with biking paths (several miles of it right through a beautiful nature reserve), golfing opportunities, water-sports such as kayaking, and snorkeling. Dolphin encounters are on the offing as well. Just a little while away in Zihuatanejo, where fishing boats double up as water taxis to Las Gatas Beach, snorkelling in the calm water (gear rentals are available) comes up as a prime idea. Both towns boast of lovely restaurants and shopping. Although the two destinations share geography, they couldn’t be more different in personality. Ixtapa shows off premium hotels and tourist services. Zihuatanejo or “Zihua” to the locals, on the other hand, is a charming little Mexican beach town that has changed very little over time. This variance offers an intriguing opportunity of exploring two distinctly different destinations in one go.

Ixtapa sunset (Source: Jake Putnam)

Ixtapa sunset (Source: Jake Putnam)

4. Guatemala

The volatile past of Gautemala spreads over a millennia of Mayan civilization, over three centuries of Spanish colonization, followed by close to four decades of guerrilla warfare. However, this Central American fascination has come a very long way. For the ones looking for a break from the usual frolic and beach time this season, there could be no better choice.

Guatemala’s history is vivid, so much so that the remnant aura of pre-Columbian warriors whiff through as though they are still striding across Tikal jungle-fringed courts. Deja vu strikes as another sense comes in; that of the ghosts of the many Catholic priests who once watched over Antigua’s colonial churches. Today’s Guatemala gives out a vibe of a heady town full of colours.

Colourful Shops A row of colourful shops in Antigua, Guatemala (Source: DaveWilsonPhotography)

Colourful Shops A row of colourful shops in Antigua, Guatemala (Source: DaveWilsonPhotography)

The African-rooted Garifuna folk brush their fantastic seafood and plantain soup with fresh coconut milk. Black beans and rice along side corn tortillas make up the countrywide cuisine. Catching the sunrise from atop the Tikal pyramid and cheering on the riders in the “Drunken Horse Race” make up for the rest of Guatemala.

5. Coronado Beach, California

No doubt San Diego comes up as one of the very best that there is. But if you want to shed some populace around you, a better option is Coronado Beach. Less populated, more pristine, with all the high wire nightlife just yonder. Travel Channel called it one of the best and it has always featured in any of the regular supplements of bikini paradises. And the gently sloping sands and small surf make it a perfect destination for some swimming and surfing. If the water seems too tiring, there are the beautiful bike-ways, shopping or the lovely ice creams at Hotel del Coronado. The beach runs along the charming Ocean Boulevard where fire rings and dog walkers share space at the north end. And did I mention the insanely close flight take-off (remember those youtube videos)?

Coronado Beach is essentially a family-break destination. For more indulging experiences, any of the other four would make more sense.

Cononado Beach (Source: colros)

Cononado Beach (Source: colros)

While it is easy to go with the regulars, it takes effort to walk along off the beaten path. An effort that pays; be it for seasoned travelers or reveling college sophomores.

-Debnath

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England, dainty, and someone called “Love”

February 9, 2012 – 4:52 pm

A backpacking/ self-exploring trip to the land of milk and honey doesn’t make you Alaskan (or Alexander Supertramp). A trip on the Trans-Siberian railway with a flask full of vodka and a flair for Tolstoy and Dostoyevsky does not make you Russian (sigh). I spent a few years in England hoping desperately that I could pass off for a true Brit in more ways than one (my post-colonial hangover is partly to blame for this) but alas, I was only mistaken for being Greek or Iranian).

What’s it like, though, to go live someplace you’ve always dreamed of being? What really stands out most about Britain – the land, the culture, the language, the people? How stiff upper-lipped are the British? Why are they so obsessed with weather? Why do most of their movies revolve around the monarchs or the working class? Why are WAGS so popular? How do they make the crumpets and scones so soft and crunchy, and is it a norm to throw an afternoon garden tea party to fit in as a true English lady?

Well, I’m not omniscient, so I don’t know the answers to all these questions! But here’s what I know and like (nay, love) about England in its all-consuming glory. Rose-tinted glasses were not worn by me, I promise, but the land of Shakespeare and The Beatles does paint a pretty picture!

(Source: Simon Doggett)

(Source: Simon Doggett)

Phenomenon no. 1: Flowers

Flower beds, flower gardens, flower vases in windowsills, blooming flowers at town roundabouts, flowers around lamp-posts, flowers around the lamps on the lamp-posts, flowers at Heathrow, Manchester, Nottingham, Sheffield, Leeds, Southampton – you name it.

Two things that come to mind – 1) The English rose – they really are a lovely breed, way more lush than their foreign counterparts. 2) Why the English use the word “blooming” so often. It’s blooming this and blooming that. Rosy!

..and the Brits love their gardens. To anyone who has read Agatha Christie, would know that they take such a major pride in their gardens. So much so, that Hercule Poirot with his Belgian/ French name and appearance and European mannerisms, had it incorporated within him in his post-retirement England days. Their gardens are like their own little safe-havens-in-a-tormented-world-pumpkin-patch. Flowers yes, and also fruits, vegetables, the whole ten yards. Blooming and rosy

Brummy Lamppost (Source: David Masters)

Brummy Lamppost (Source: David Masters)

No wonder Jamie Oliver can be such a goddamn good chef that people say he is. Anyone who has watched his show ‘Jamie at home’ would know how priceless this English combination of rosy garden and cooking skills is. Everything he might have wanted to try out as a kid, as part of his gastronomic journey to adulthood, he could pluck out from his own back garden and fry, grill, season, or just plain eat. Everything else was a walk away in the wild gardens of his neighbourhood. Wild mushrooms with wilder names. And now his garden is a setting for his own cooking show – convenience, thy name is spelt English.

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