Tag Archives: streetfood

Moscow’s simple pleasures – street food in the city

Moscow is an experience in itself, one that has many different facets. The colorful domes of St. Basil’s cathedral would remind you of fairytale castles in Russian folk tales, a walk through Gorky Park lets you see lots of locals settled down for a picnic on a lazy afternoon with a samovar, delicious food and a couple of beers, with some playing tunes on the balalaika. A stroll through Red Square at night to see the Kremlin in a whole new light, as it stands majestically, would make you feel very small indeed.

At Gorky Park by Geir Halvorsen

At Gorky Park by Geir Halvorsen

Moscow invariably reminds me of Russian ballet, the Kremlin, the era of the Czars, Stalin and lots of imposing architecture, in no particular order. The imposing buildings and the impeccably dressed, tall, good looking people everywhere in their evening coats lend an air of opulence to the city. Everything here is glamorous and decadent, but if you go past the glitzy clubs, the glittering skyscrapers and fancy restaurants, you’ll find many parts of the city are simple in their beauty and you experience a different side of Moscow. The pleasure lies in finding that side, and once you do there’s nothing like it.

Babushka - Craft stall near Gorky Park by qwertyuiop

Babushka - Craft stall near Gorky Park by qwertyuiop

On carrying ski gear and trying street-side hotdogs

Take its many eccentricities – it isn’t uncommon to see people randomly selling puppies or kittens in the subway, or the famous Russian policewomen with their bright scarlet nails and black boots, people always on the move, carrying just about anything anywhere, from office chairs to even ski gear. It can be rather strange at first, but then tends to grow on you.

One of the experiences that well defines the city is its food, and food does not normally spring to mind when I think of Moscow. it turns out, there’s much more to the city than what gives out at first scratch. And a great way to discover is by trying out the culinary craft of a Russian equivalent of a street-side hot dog vendor. Russian food is usually rich and wholesome – created to keep one warm and satiated in the bitter winter chill. Some staples include borsch, which is basically beet soup flavored with meat, vegetables and sometimes garnished with a dollop of sour cream. Blini is another favorite – Russian version of pancakes, with a hearty stuffing which could either be jam, cheese or sometimes even chocolate.

Buying supper by Andy Hares

Buying supper by Andy Hares

Most people tell me and the prospective visitors that eating out in Moscow is generally very expensive. While that can be true (blame it on the Zarish extravagance), it’s a lot lovelier to take a stroll along Moscow’s many beautiful boulevards and streets and sample some of the street food there is to offer. It should be said though, that it’s better to stick to known names – the Russians can get quite experimental.

Baked potatoes, cheese and dinner of a rich Muscovite

There are these little street carts, some with their own brands – a must-try is Kroshka Kartoshka, which, when roughly translated, means ‘Pretty Little Potato’. Logically, they sell delicious baked potatoes with a variety of different kinds of stuffing like feta cheese, sour cream (smetana) and pickles, lox and bacon as toppings. Top it off with a glass of beer and we are all set for a lovely day.

"Kroshka Kartoshka" Russian fast food stands are all over Moscow by Swerz

"Kroshka Kartoshka" Russian fast food stands are all over Moscow by Swerz

If it’s early in the morning, it makes perfect sense to start the day with some lenyoshki, (freshly baked bread) made of a certain type of grain found in Uzbekistan. Delicious and fresh, it really fills you up and seriously gives a good appreciation of how something as basic as bread can be so different in another part of the globe.

In the summer months, the time is prime for some morozhenoe, or Russian ice-cream. Much icier and more delectable than your usual western brands. Once again, numerous carts on the streets to choose from and long lines to circumvent.

by World Bank Photo Collection

by World Bank Photo Collection

For something different, there are the blinis at Teremok, a chain kiosk that sells delicious brown and orange blinis with all kinds of stuffing both sweet and savory. At Dorogomilovo, close to Kiev’s railway station is a fresh produce market which sells, among other things, a whole range of locally made cheeses, fresh herbs and juicy, wholesome vegetables. Some of the cheese with a bottle of wine from L’Intendant –indulgence, Moscow-style, and finally, the likeness of a dinner of a typical, wealthy Muscovite.

Finally, when you’re in Moscow, drink as the Muscovites do. Russian vodka is the obvious choice, but there’s the traditional kvas too – a fermented rye beverage that’s known to be very heady. And kvas can be found almost anywhere, including street vendors and local grocery shops.

Exploring Moscow is a pleasure in itself, and discovering its many-layered wonders requires patience and the willingness to explore. The charm of Moscow is one of a kind, and usually intrigues, and stays with long after the trip.

Post contributed by Nandini Swaminathan
On the way to Moscow by archer10 (Dennis) OFF

On the way to Moscow by archer10 (Dennis) OFF

Discovering Tokyo over Ramen

Now we know Ramen has taken over the world. But what is it like discovering the seat of the great noodle empire, while gorging on some delectable Ramen? The Waseda University in Tokyo, acts like a giant magnet for gastronomy prospectors. It is a noodle-rush here. Many tiny and tidy alleys swarm out from the university area. While they all have a separate character to themselves, there’s a particular one that is the point of out interest.

A food world in Japan By bass_nroll

A food world in Japan By bass_nroll

Not too far into the alley, is a stall that does not look like a ramen shop. The fact is, it does not like anything in particular at all. It’s called the Ganko, and it firmly believes in “what’s there in a name”. There are no sign boards, or even a window that you can peer through. In fact, it has nothing more than a makeshift (although I don’t know if you can call it makeshift any more, after all the years) ragged old black tarp set along a tiled wall. Well, something is there, to give it away (although it is difficult to fathom how) – a hanging animal bone.

Inside, its not grime on bamboo. Its glass, but a sliding door nevertheless, true to the Japanese fascination with all things sliding. There are neatly arranged stools set along a wooden counter-top, and beyond this is a small kitchen. The walls are blackened with age but no dirt can be seen anywhere. Here, an old ramen chef works alone. With thick eye-glasses which more often than not, are fogged by steam from rich stews, he prefers not to speak a word as he meticulously fills the bowls with careful mixtures of flavours, fats, perfectly cooked noodles and slabs of roasted pork. Finishes with a topping of hot flavoured oil. Sometimes, he adds in a boiled egg, sliced into two.

Sometimes, You Just Need a Ramen By Coal Miki

Sometimes, You Just Need a Ramen By Coal Miki

When it comes to senses related to good food, apart from the taste and sight, there’s sound that gives away dependable hints towards the intensity of taste. Usually, in a ramen shop, there are a number of sounds – friendly banter, loud appreciations for the chef and an occasional burp. But its the slurping that quite easily takes center-stage. And towards the end of meal time, a lot of “Gochiso-sama deshita” is spoken out – “thank you for the meal”.

The Ganko is but just one tiny speck in Tokyo’s massive ramen ecosystem. A whole world by itself which has been covered relentlessly since the early 80s – guidebooks, TV shows, magazines, numerous blogs, you name it. And even then, countless little tarp covered Gankos are discovered each day and the credit primarily goes to the University students.

It is not difficult to appropriate Tokyo’s obsession with ramen. Let’s say we pull in the madness for  pizzas and hot dogs that the western world has for them. Oh and let’s throw in the beach barbecue craze for good measure. We will only begin to approximate the ramen fever.

Nagi is a mini-chain of two ramen shops. One sits a little out of the neon wilderness of Shibuya; the heady shopping and nightlife epicenter. The area has some of the city’s more walled ramen eateries. But similar to its less glazed version, its easy to overlook it, thinking of the establishment to be nothing more than a watering hole instead of a belying bustling noodlery.

"ラーメン凪 煮干王 渋谷店 by norio.nakayama

"ラーメン凪 煮干王 渋谷店 by norio.nakayama

The insides give out a unique oriental intimacy. The walls have brown-paper flour sack hangings, and contrary to a new Japanese custom, the orders are not given by a meal ticket. The tonkotsu broth is simmered for days until it turns rich and milky.

Nagi ramen, Shinjuku Golden Gai, Tokyo By eeems

Nagi ramen, Shinjuku Golden Gai, Tokyo By eeems

The Akihabara is a relatively new entrant into the ramen arena. In fact, until recently, some called it the ramen wasteland. The Japanese neighborhoods are like onions, a multitude of layers and smaller neighborhoods within. Take for instance, the otaku, a place, I am told, with an insatiable appetite for cute girls in high school and maid get-up. But recently, this appetite has grown to include ramen. But not as an alternative, only as an added bonus.

Maid By kirainet

Maid By kirainet

Here is Tsumugi. Which, once again, is not easily located and Akihabara can be confusing will all the shiny exteriors. To make things more difficult, it sits in the basement of a bank. There are a quite a few variations to be tried here. But the signature is, of course, the tsumugi – a sweet and spicy option. The sweetness mainly comes from the spring onions, and the spice from the sesame oil.
The chinese might have said “May you live in interesting times”, but the phrase applies to Japan oh so much. Japan has always been that way – part mysterious, part enigmatic. The country is an awe inspiring duet of polar meanings and it does not stop at the cherry trees and the enigmatic geisha.

-Debnath 

Dark rain by kirainet

Dark rain "guerrilla rain", Tokyo by kirainet